Gearbox & Gear change
Rear Brake Light Switch
Reflective tapes – lights
Bosch Motronic Fuel Injection System
Oil Filler
Exhaust nuts / studs
Front End Squeaks & Creaks
This page is about the trials and tribulations of riding an “oilhead” RS in everyday use. I should point out that although I enjoy riding, I ride for transport, not pleasure. This entails high mileages in all weathers and soon sorts out the limitations of the RS. Fortunately, there are very few.
I spend half the week commuting from Middx to Central London, and the other half on a 200 mile round trip to Ashford, Kent. I also use the bike for meetings all around the country. I bought it in Summer 2001 with 43,000 miles on the clock and as at February 2004 I have 72,000 miles (10,000 in the last six months)
The RS has been largely reliable, and the ideal tool for my needs. However, it is not perfect and I have detailed below some of the flaws and inconveniences which you will eventually encounter if you are an all weather rider (and less than fastidious about cleaning !)
Gearbox & Gear change
Ignoring the 6 speed R1150RS, there are three gearbox types fitted to the RS. 1994 and earlier, 94 – 97 and ’97 on. Although the general rule with these gearboxes is “the later the better” ( I have the latest “’97 on” ‘box in my bike – it’s a long story !), there can be a gearchange problem caused by external dirt.
The gear lever pivots on the footrest bracket. This should be well greased. If not, the pedal does not spring back after each gearchange. This will prevent you from making the next “up” change unless you tap lightly down on the lever before making the change. It’s worth noting that although the footrest is easy to remove, the pivot boly has a 1” diameter head with a very small allen (hex) socket in the middle. Speaking from experience, it is wise to ensure a good fit with the hex key before applying brute force !!!
Rear Brake Light Switch
In winter weather, the brake light switch for the rear brake is the bane of my life. It operates in reverse, using the contact between the pedal and the frame to turn the light off by providing an earth. There is a thin metal contact between the two and this “clags up” preventing the earth contact which puts the brake light out. Having brake lights stuck on also neatly renders the front brake light switch redundant. People don’t always draw your attention to this one and constant running of the brake light can even start to melt the light lens. Apart from keeping it clean in the first place (yeah right !), an emery board is a useful tool to keep in your pocket as it can be slid between the contacts while the brake pedal is held lightly upwards.
Reflective tapes – lights
Much has been written about the poor performance of the RS’s headlight. On top of that is the single bulb setup for the tail light. I have covered as much of the rear of the bike with red “Scotchlite” and a selection of white “Scotchlite” stripes adorn the front and sides of the fairing. The piece de resistance is the “scotchlite tape on the wheel rim from the top dudes at Moto Equip http://www.motoequip.com/. Althoguh I don’t get to see it myself, I understand that it provides a circle of white light from the side in a very effective manner
Bosch Motronic Fuel Injection System
The Bosch Motronic system fitted to the RS is largely reliable. However it is worth checking all connections at intervals as damp in the wiring plugs can cause all sorts of problems of misfiring/backfiring. Backfiring or popping on overrun can be caused by a poor connection at one injector. The Bosch connector plugs are a good fit and reasonably weatherproof but occasionally removing and refitting the connectors provides a “wipe” of the contacts and a quick spray of WD40 also helps.
Oil Filler
Another source of woe for the RS owner (or indeed any “oilhead” owner ) is the oil filler on the top of the left cylinder head. I’ll post some pictures shortly but the problem is that there is an “O” ring in the head and another on the filler plug. Over time as these deteriorate, there isd a risk of oil “misting” from the head leaving you with a shiny boot (I speak from experience). Although replacing the “O” rings is cheap and easy, a popular mod is to fit a locking filler plug. Available chromed with a allen key fixing, these are less than £20 and of considerably better quality than the plastic BMW original.
Exhaust nuts / studs
The chrome “domes” on the exhaust studs are fairly thin and will rust through leaving the threads exposed to the elements. The photos show all that was left of my studs when removed compared with new studs. The UK price of a complete set of studs, nuts and gaskets is less than £20 but the labour cost in fitting them when they have to be carefully removed to avoid the need for drilling, is much, much higher (again, speaking from experience !). Check yours NOW !
Front End Squeaks & Creaks
The bottom mount for the front shock is usually the culprit here – hardly surprising given its position “head on” to everything the road can throw up. The problem is worse in wet weather and can easily be cured. A quick spray of WD40 proves the point but to properly cure the squeak you need a spare bolt. Undo the nut, grease the new bolt and use it to push the old bolt through the eye.
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